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Stately Diamond Ring in White Gold by Otto Klein, Hanau, c. 1935

Stately Diamond Ring in White Gold by Otto Klein, Hanau, c. 1935

This ring from Otto Klein’s goldsmith’s workshop in Hanau is both bold and intricate, expressive and subtly refined. His workshop, founded as early as 1909, was renowned well into the 20th century for its artistic jewelry, as well as for crafting several trophies for the 1936 Olympic Games in Berlin. The workshop was based in Hanau, a city known since the 18th century for its high-quality handcrafted jewellery and which, to this day, is home to the German Goldsmiths’ House with its impressive jewellery collection. This ring clearly demonstrates why jewellery pieces from Otto Klein’s workshop remain coveted collector’s items to this day. The modernist, two-part band, crafted from cool, lustrous white gold, holds a symmetrically arranged centerpiece organized around a large transition-cut diamond. To the left and right of the stone, which weighs approximately 0.80 ct, two baguette diamonds on each side extend the center section into a sparkling band reminiscent of a stylized bow. Two arches, set with a total of eight diamonds and following the shape of the center brilliant, complete the ring face and enhance it with a large circular form. In total, approximately 2.30 ct of diamonds of outstanding quality have been used. The bold design language of the so-called “retro style”—which, in the 1930s, transformed the preference for rather flat pieces of jewellery into a more three-dimensional design—is particularly evident here in the layering of geometric shapes and the subtle gradation of the planes. The cuts of the diamonds also indicate that the ring was crafted around 1935. This magnificent yet comfortable-to-wear piece of Hanau jewellery came to us from an estate in the Bavarian Vogtland region.

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Stately Diamond Ring in White Gold by Otto Klein, Hanau, c. 1935