Resplendent Natural Pearl, Diamond and Verneuil Ruby Bracelet, c. 1905

This bracelet is a magnificent sight. Voluminous links of velvety shining gold lead to a sparkling centerpiece, the front of which is covered in silver. Strips of rose diamonds nestle around large old cuts that hold an equally precious treasure at their center: a natural pearl. In a time when every real pearl had to be retrieved by divers, pearls were sometimes just as expensive as diamonds - and, like diamonds, were staged as the centerpiece of fine jewels. To make the pearl stand out even more visually, a modern technical trick was used: it was surrounded by a frame of suitably cut rubies. This technique, in which stones are cut in such a way that they fill predetermined shapes almost exactly and look like a colored band, became popular at the beginning of the 20th century. The rubies themselves are just as modern, as they are synthetic gemstones produced in the laboratory. The first synthetic rubies were launched in 1902 and quickly became the "dernier cri", being set in luxurious diamond jewellery, just like natural rubies. The bracelet is an exciting piece between tradition and modernity. The natural pearl and the precious diamonds are very much in the tradition of the finest 19th century jewellery. The use of silver on a gold base also follows the tradition of European goldsmithing. The art of the suitably cut stones and the Verneuil rubies, on the other hand, represent the modern avant-garde. A beautiful and luxurious jewel has been created from the harmony of retrospection and new beginnings. At the time of its creation, it was part of the evening wardrobe of a wealthy lady. Which ballrooms might it have seen, which opera premieres was it present at? This is not the first time we have wished that antique jewels could speak...

估價:$9,511

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