Rare Enamelled Snake Brooch with Large Natural Pearls, Vienna, c. 1875

For a long time, the pearl was not only considered the equal of the dazzling white diamond but was even held in higher esteem: This did not change until, over the centuries, the diamond—which is unremarkable in its raw state—was cut into more and more facets, making it equal in beauty to the pearl. Even rarer, however, were the large, coloured natural pearls. In the days of pearl diving, every pearl was unique and a stroke of luck—all the more so if it displayed an unusual colour. One waited for the perfect pearl—sometimes for years—and its setting had to be carefully considered. This brooch is therefore a piece of extraordinary rarity that could not easily be replicated. Its centerpiece is a large natural saltwater pearl, which displays rich shades ranging from a deep violet through a brownish hue to a grayish violet. A delicate green orient glides over it in places, lending the play of colours a fascinating depth. A diamond-set wreath of leaves surrounds the pearl, around which a snake with a diamond head winds, as if guarding the precious treasure. The design in gold with colorful enamel in red, green, and white is a deliberate homage, intended to evoke the colourfully enamelled gold jewellery of the Renaissance, when many jewels were composed around large Baroque pearls as a central element. The diamonds of archaic cuts—presumably taken from far older pieces and reused here—were intended to perfect the illusion. Below the snake hangs another teardrop-shaped white pearl, which can be detached from its diamond-set gold setting. The brooch can therefore also be worn without this pendant. Judging by its design and craftsmanship, the brooch was likely created in the 1870s—clearly after 1872, as indicated by its hallmark—in Vienna: This immediately brings to mind the oil paintings created in the 1870s and 1880s by the Vienna-based artist Hans Makart, who portrayed ladies in opulent Renaissance costumes. The brooch was also conceived under the influence of this artistic and intellectual milieu. A wonderful piece of jewellery for anyone seeking the rare and extraordinary in antique jewellery.

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