Rare Art Déco Platinum Ring with "Emerald Cut" Diamonds & Emeralds, c. 1925

It is the cut that gives the diamond its final shape and elicits its fire from the crystal. For many centuries, the focus was on trying to achieve an increasingly round cut with numerous facets. The development went from the first rose and table cuts of the 16th century to the modern brilliant cut, which was optimized down to the smallest detail by Marcel Tolkowsky in 1919. His cut is still considered the standard today, with later optimizations bringing only minimal changes in detail. It is interesting to note that just at the moment when the brilliant cut had reached its final form, the diamond cutters were evidently really seized by the desire to experiment. Hand in hand with the Art Deco fashion, jewellery now featured new cuts that set themselves apart from the previous brilliant cut. The baguette cut, the Asscher cut and the emerald cut are no longer round, but square. And therefore modern: Before the First World War, such cuts were sought in vain; after 1918, however, they were regularly encountered. This ring is therefore easy to date. We see two high-quality emerald-cut diamonds in its center: The stones, which together weigh around 0.80 ct, are very pure (vsi) and shine in rare white (G). They also give the ring its shape: A first frame of suitably cut emeralds frames the diamonds - a witty choice to surround the emerald-cut diamonds with emeralds! This is followed by a second frame of smaller single cut diamonds, giving the ring face its octagonal, elongated shape. The ring is made of platinum, the emeralds are set in gold. Rings with so-called "calibrated" cut colored stones such as the emeralds shown here became fashionable in the years shortly before the First World War and remained fashionable until the 1930s. This idea is taken up here and combined with modern emerald-cut diamonds. We therefore date the ring to the 1920s. We discovered it in Vienna.

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