Magnificent Garnet and Gold Bangle, Convertible to a Pendant & Brooch, c. 1840

When we think of garnet jewellery. we almost invariably think of jewellery from the late 19th century, whose surfaces are set with countless small faceted stones from Bohemia. In the mid-19th century, however, a completely different kind of garnet jewellery was in fashion: large garnets cut into cabochons were the order of the day - impressive stones that mostly came to Europe from the British Indies. This magnificent piece of jewellery is a wonderful example of this. The work sets an unusually large garnet in high-carat gold. Rich, rococo-inspired curves frame the stone in playful asymmetry. Polished and frosted sections alternate and create rich light effects. The large garnet also lives from the shine of the gold, as it is set against a background of polished gold that shimmers through the cabochon. What can only be seen at second glance: the showpiece of the bracelet can be removed and can also be worn as a brooch and pendant! A pin and a loop are included for this purpose, which can alternatively be inserted into the joint on the back of the showpiece. To do this, pull the small axle to the side and then insert one or the other element. The style of the piece of jewellery and its magnificent, heavy decoration allow us to date the work to around 1840. The decorations of the jewellery with their rich volutes were once again based on the Rococo style during this period - this is also referred to as the second Rococo. The bracelet was also created against this backdrop: It breathes the spirit of the past, but was incredibly modern at the time of its creation. We discovered the piece of jewellery with its original antique case in London. For dating, compare two similar bracelets in David Bennet and Daniela Mascetti: Understanding Jewellery, Woodbridge 2010, p. 94.

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