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4d 19hDEHofer Antikschmuck

Exquisite Bar Brooch With Old Cut Diamonds in Gold & Platinum, c. 1910

Exquisite Bar Brooch With Old Cut Diamonds in Gold & Platinum, c. 1910

Rarely part of the repertoire of modern goldsmiths and jewellers, the bar brooch was once a quintessential accessory during the Belle Époque, an essential feature in every lady’s jewellery collection. From elegant gold designs adorned with pearls or colourful gemstones for daytime wear, to exquisite diamond-set pins reserved for evening occasions, the bar brooch was created in a myriad of forms. The piece we present here is exceptionally exquisite. Five substantial old European cut diamonds, with a total weight of approximately 2.06 carats—the largest of which alone exceeds half a carat—serve as the focal points of this brooch, arranged in a horizontal sequence of diminishing sizes. These dazzling gems are complemented by delicate leaf motifs that evoke the appearance of flowers in bloom. At each end of the brooch, dainty diamond roses add a refined finishing touch. Fully set with diamonds, the piece shimmers as though suffused with radiant white light. A meticulously crafted safety clasp ensures this treasured jewel can be worn with confidence. Stylistically, the brooch aligns with the fashion trends of circa 1910, and its material composition reflects this era as well, being crafted in gold with a platinum overlay. Interestingly, the smaller diamonds adorning the leaves appear to be much older than the brooch itself, their distinctive rectangular Peruzzi cut characteristic of the 18th and early 19th centuries. It is likely these stones were repurposed from a family heirloom, a common practice at the time. In contrast, the larger diamonds display a cut that is contemporaneous with the brooch’s creation. This enchanting piece of jewellery is remarkably well-preserved, offering a timeless floral homage to the elegance of the Belle Époque.

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