Elegant Gold & Diamond Brooch, c. 1880

We often associate naturalism in jewellery art only with Art Nouveau or the years of late Biedermeier. In fact, however, these demarcations are not so easy to make, because the craftsmen always looked to nature for fresh impulses. Thus, as early as the 1880s - the heyday of historicism - there were calls to overcome it and to pursue a more intensive study of nature instead of copying old styles. Thus W. Koopmann wrote in 1889 On the question of style in the Kunstgewerbeblatt: "It is certainly justified if the imitation of famous styles gradually causes a feeling of weariness [...]. It is certainly more logical to teach the natural forms first, then the stylistic forms, because the former are the primary, the latter the derivative; although capable artists have also been trained who have learned the stylistic forms first. It is more important that the student should pursue the study of nature and the study of exemplary masters thoroughly, in order to become artistically independent." (Kunstgewerbeblatt, 5/1889, pp. 165-168 (p. 165). Thus, the present brooch is already reminiscent of Art Nouveau - but it was created in the period around 1880. This is shown not only by its workmanship, but also by a comparative piece in Martin Gerlach's design book Die Perle, Vol. III, from 1880 (see fig.). The brooch of light reddish gold presents itself as a fantastic vine, with a leaf full of diamonds and a bud just waiting to open. The surfaces are partly polished, partly satin, then engraved again and even lightly greenish gilded in places, so that although uniformly made of gold, the picture is rich and varied. Originally, the brooch would have carried pearls or coloured stones; today, small octagonal-cut diamonds sparkle in their place. The brooch came to us from Minden and is beautifully preserved.

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