Beautiful Old Cut Diamond Necklace in Silver on Gold, c. 1890 & later

Foliate tendrils form a drop-shaped frame. A five-petalled leaf unfolds inside, with a flower hanging below. The blossom is formed by a single choice diamond of more than half a carat. A total of 57 diamonds weighing around 2.73 ct together bathe the floral composition in their white light. A delicate gold chain rounds off the piece of jewelry and allows it to be worn as a necklace. The diamond-set showpiece has a special history: it appears to have once been an element of a larger piece of jewellery, most likely a tiara. This is revealed by two screw threads on the back, but also by the slightly convex shape, which follows the curve of a tiara. If you turn the ornament upside down, you can imagine how it would have adorned the head of a lady of high society in a row of uniform elements, perhaps staggered in size. Around 1890, when this piece was created, based on its design language and diamond cuts, this multiple use of precious diamond jewellery was quite common in order to justify large investments and make the pieces more wearable. The American Jewelers' Circular thus read in 1898: "Fine jewelry now-a-days is not only 'what it seems,' but a good many other things also. Diamond necklets are convertible into tiaras, and vice versa; gemmed bracelets are contrived to furnish a brooch, brooches serve for hair ornaments, and a handsome buckle my separate into a brooch and a neck ornament, while it is an old tale that brooches are furnished with a loop so that they may be used as pendants." Later, the diamond element was complemented by a fine gold chain that can be worn in two lengths. In its current form as a necklace, the piece was once imported to Paris, where we were able to discover it. The quote is from Elsie Bee, 'Fashions in Jewelry, Silver Ware, Bric-à-Brac, Etc.', The Jewelers' Circular, November 2, 1898, p. 16.

估價:$7,838.25

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