Art Deco Necklace with Diamonds in Gold & Platinum, c. 1930

Pendants and brooches are the pieces of jewellery that give the designer the greatest freedom. Unlike rings or bracelets, little consideration had to be given to the comfort of wearing them. Hardly any other type of jewelry expresses the geometric clarity and expressiveness of Art Deco as succinctly as the pendant of those years. They are characterized by elongated proportions, symmetrical compositions and a cool elegance defined by diamonds. This necklace follows this ideal. Its pendant, firmly mounted on a delicate chain, shows a clearly structured, geometric design. In the center is a round old-cut diamond weighing approximately 0.30 carats, flanked by two small rose cut diamonds. Fine milgrains and precisely placed shadow gaps structure the surface in lively patterns. Above and below the middle section, two dark blue sapphires in triangular cuts set colorful accents; these are typical contemporary syntheses. All of the stones are set in platinum, while the back of the piece is made of gold. The necklace with its precious setting is in first-class condition. For the history of Art Deco pendants, see David Bennet and Daniela Mascetti: Understanding Jewellery, Woodbridge 2010, p. 314.

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