Antique Earl's Crown Brooch with Pearls, Sapphires & Rubies, France c. 1890

This brooch from the last years of the 19th century is in the shape of a crown. It is made of high-carat gold and richly set with rubies, sapphires and natural pearls. It is a so-called crown of leaves or helmet, a heraldic symbol of nobility. Nine prongs studded with pearls indicate the rank of count or countess. Pieces of jewellery of this kind were visible signs of affiliation and social rank and were often given as gifts or passed on within aristocratic circles. Whether this brooch also tells such a story can no longer be determined with certainty today, but its elaborate design and the precious materials clearly indicate an upscale, aristocratic context. The vivid colors of the gemstones, the interplay of materials and the meticulous execution make it likely that it was made around 1890, when figurative and symbolic brooches were very popular. Small hallmarks also allow the piece to be located in France. A comparable, albeit smaller, piece can be found in the literature by Walter Grasser and Franz Hemmerle: Kostbare Krawattennadeln, Munich 1999, p. 41.

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