Antique Diamond Necklace in Platinum on Gold, Germany, c. 1915

Fashion in the first decade after 1900 brought about a completely new trend. As before, pieces of jewellery made of platinum, silver, and diamonds shone in bright white. But the designs were now becoming increasingly lighter, more delicate—even ethereal. In particular, the increasingly widespread use of platinum made it possible to create the most delicate of bridges and structures. Barely thicker than the threads in a spider’s web, like an airy web, these designs stretch out, whether as a pendant, a brooch, or a ring. And they always feature brilliant diamonds. This necklace exemplifies the qualities of that era. It features a delicate chain with a filigree pendant set with one old-cut diamond and 21 smaller rose cut diamonds. The gold body of the pendant, shaped like a widening teardrop, is set with a platinum front panel. In the center of this surface hangs a bar featuring two small laurel leaves and an old-cut diamond weighing approximately 0.15 ct. The diamond roses are scattered across the platinum surface; separated by fine shadow gaps, they sparkle in myriad ways with every shift of light. Delicate engravings and fine milgrains dissolve the shapes into a play of white light. The construction of platinum over gold is typical of early 20th-century jewellery. We discovered this beautiful necklace in Vienna.

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