Antique Commemorative Ring With Grand Ducal Crown in Gold & Hair, c. 1790

Two golden letters, "SF", stand in the center of this ring under a golden crown. They are placed on an elaborate braid of hair and kept safe under glass. A frame of reddish gold holds the arrangement securely and protects it from the outside; a ring band, also made of gold, turns the work into a ring. The ring is a commemorative piece of jewellery from the late 18th century, the age of classicism, the French Revolution and, at the same time, friendship and a sophisticated culture of remembrance. People wrote letters, gave each other locks of hair and, last but not least, pieces of jewellery to cast the memory and deep connection to each other, be it out of friendship or love, into a solid form. The crown above the initials is a grand ducal crown, with five visible clasps that meet in an orb. A comparison with other pieces of jewellery of the time suggests that the ring was made in memory of a deceased person; however, such rings were sometimes also given as gifts during a person's lifetime to maintain a friendship, e.g. when one of the friends was abroad. But who does the ring commemorate? So far we don't know. It was certainly once worn by a woman. Perhaps the daughter of the "SF"? We discovered the ring in Cologne. Beautiful examples of friendship and commemorative jewellery from around 1800, which also help to date this ring, are compiled by Gisela Zick: Gedenke mein. Freundschafts- und Memorialschmuck 1770-1870, Dortmund 1980.

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