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5d 1hDEHofer Antikschmuck

Antique Brooch with Citrine, Diamonds & Natural Pearls by Robert Merath

Antique Brooch with Citrine, Diamonds & Natural Pearls by Robert Merath

In many ways, late Art Deco jewellery returned more to the history of art than the early, cool and modernist design language of the 1920s. From 1930 onwards, pieces of jewellery gradually became more colorful again with the new decade. A lot of jewellery in yellow gold emerged, and here and there the spirit of the times even mixed in a reminiscence or two of bygone eras. This brooch is such a case: obviously inspired by pieces of jewellery from older times, the brooch cleverly combines past and present: its elongated oval shape is entirely in keeping with the taste of its time of origin. However, its finely sawn and wildly sculptural leaf ornamentation pays homage to the Baroque era with its lush, swelling forms. At its center, the brooch presents a wonderful orange Ceylon-cut citrine. The stone has a fine, orange-red color reminiscent of Madeira wine. Three old-cut diamonds add glittering white points of light in platinum settings, and three unusual natural pearls in wonderful shades between gray and violet add a festive shimmer to the brooch. According to the hallmark, the brooch is the work of the goldsmith Robert Merath, who worked in the city of Ulm. From there it traveled to western Germany, where we discovered it in Düsseldorf and finally brought it to Berlin. Where will its journey take it next?

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