An Elegant Garland-Style Diamond Necklace in Platinum, c. 1905

The early years of the 20th century marked the height of the Belle Époque, the “beautiful era.” The upper classes had been reveling in great wealth for several decades, and more jewellery was produced during this period than ever before. This jewellery was an expression of good taste as well as social status. In the evenings, people wore diamonds to the opera, to a grand dinner, or to a ball. The preferred style for fine evening jewellery was the Garland Style, with its nods to the era of Marie Antoinette: bows, laurel leaves, and the eponymous garlands. When the first wearer of this piece of jewellery took it out to evening events, the piece of jewellery spoke of wealth, elegance—and the spirit of the times. She may have been dressed in a pastel-colored chiffon gown from House of Worth or Callot Soeurs—unless, after poring over fashion magazines, she had commissioned a dressmaker to create a design of her own. She may have chatted about the world premiere she had just seen of Richard Strauss’s new opera based on Oscar Wilde’s Salome, Thomas Mann’s latest novella, or the events of the past summer, which fortune-seekers and wealthy elites alike enjoyed spending in Monte Carlo on the Riviera. As dusk fell outside, her diamonds sparkled in the modern electric light: 230 in number, totaling about 6.00 ct. They are set close together in understated platinum settings and form the characteristic shapes of the Garland Style: flowing ribbons and garlands of leaves come together to create a composition of radiant light. The fact that it is crafted entirely in platinum makes it particularly luxurious, as the metal was significantly more expensive than gold and a novelty at the time. Like so many precious jewels of this era, this one can also be worn in various ways. The delicate chains, alternating with floral ornaments, can be removed and worn on their own: they can then be used individually as bracelets or together as a short, choker-length necklace. The necklace found its way to us from Cologne. It is in very good condition and, even after more than a century, is still in excellent condition for wearing.

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